Gilgit-Baltistan Province
Gilgit-Baltistan, previously known as the Northern Areas, is a region administered by Pakistan in the northern part of the larger Kashmir area, which has been disputed by India, Pakistan, and China since 1947 and 1959. It borders Azad Kashmir, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Afghanistan’s Wakhan Corridor, China’s Xinjiang region, and the Indian-administered union territories of Jammu and Kashmir and Ladakh.
General Information
- Region: Gilgit-Baltistan
- Administering Country: Pakistan
- Established: 1 November 1948 (Gilgit-Baltistan Independence Day)
- Capital: Gilgit
- Largest City: Skardu
Government
- Type: Administrative territory
- Body: Government of Gilgit-Baltistan
- Governor: Syed Mehdi Shah
- Chief Minister: Gulbar Khan
- Chief Secretary: Ahmed Ali Mirza (BPS 21-PAS)
- Legislature: Gilgit-Baltistan Assembly
- High Court: Supreme Appellate Court Gilgit-Baltistan
Area
- Total: 72,496 km² (27,991 sq mi)
Population (2017)
- Total: 1,492,924
Time Zone and Communication
- Time Zone: UTC+05:00 (PKT)
- ISO 3166 Code: PK-GB
Languages
- Balti, Shina, Wakhi, Burushaski, Khowar, Domaki, Purgi, Changthang, Brokskat, Ladakhi, Urdu (administrative)
Human Development Index (HDI)
- 2019 HDI: 0.592 (Medium)
Administrative Divisions
- Assembly Seats: 33
- Divisions: 3
- Districts: 14
- Tehsils: 31
- Union Councils: 113
Website
- Official Website: gilgitbaltistan.gov.pk
The region, along with Azad Kashmir, is referred to internationally as “Pakistan-administered Kashmir.” Gilgit-Baltistan is six times larger than Azad Kashmir. Established as a separate administrative unit in 1970, the area was renamed in 2009 and granted limited autonomy. However, real power is seen to rest with the governor rather than the elected assembly. While many residents support integration with Pakistan as a fifth province, the Pakistani government has resisted, fearing it could affect its stance on the Kashmir dispute. In November 2020, then-Prime Minister Imran Khan announced that Gilgit-Baltistan would receive provisional provincial status.
Covering over 72,971 square kilometers (28,174 square miles), the region is highly mountainous, with a population of around 1.8 million in 2015. The capital, Gilgit, has about 216,760 residents. The economy is mainly driven by agriculture and tourism, particularly trekking and mountaineering. Gilgit-Baltistan is home to five of the world’s highest peaks, including K2, and three of the longest glaciers outside the polar regions.
History
Early History
Ancient Settlements and Buddhism
Gilgit-Baltistan’s history stretches back to around 2000 BC, as evidenced by rock carvings and stupa remnants found in the region, particularly in Passu village of Hunza. These ancient artworks suggest that the area was inhabited long before the emergence of organized states. Early settlers on the Tibetan plateau included Tibetans who preceded the Balti people of Baltistan. Baltistan, which shares physical and cultural similarities with Ladakh (though differing in religious practices), was originally home to the Dards. These Shina-speaking people settled in Gilgit, Chilas, Astore, and Diamir, while Burushaski and Khowar speakers were prevalent in Hunza and upper regions.
Historical texts, including those by Herodotus, Nearchus, Megasthenes, Pliny, Ptolemy, and the Puranas, mention the Dards. Initially, the people of Gilgit-Baltistan followed the Bon religion in the 1st century, transitioning to Buddhism by the 2nd century.
Chinese and Tibetan Influence
Chinese Buddhist pilgrim Faxian visited the region between 399 and 414. The 6th century saw the rule of an unnamed king over the area, and between 627 and 645, another Chinese pilgrim, Xuanzang, traveled through the region.
Chinese records from the Tang dynasty refer to a Buddhist dynasty known as Bolü, or Palola, which ruled the area between the 600s and 700s. This dynasty, believed to be the Patola Shahis, practiced Vajrayana Buddhism. The term “Little Palola” referred to Gilgit, while “Great Palola” referred to Baltistan.
Turkic and Tibetan Control
In the mid-600s, after the fall of the Western Turkic Khaganate, Gilgit came under Chinese control. However, the rise of the Tibetan Empire led to the region being contested by both Tibetan and Chinese forces until the mid-700s. Tibetan forces, allied with the Umayyad and Abbasid Caliphates, battled the Chinese. By 737/738, Tibetan troops captured Little Palola (Gilgit), only for it to be recaptured by the Chinese in 747. By 755, with the onset of the An Lushan Rebellion, Chinese forces withdrew, and Tibetan control resumed until the late 800s.
Zoroastrian Influence and the Trakhan Dynasty
During the 7th century, Turkic tribes practicing Zoroastrianism founded the Trakhan dynasty in Gilgit.
Medieval History
Arrival of Islam
In the 14th century, Sufi Muslim preachers from Persia and Central Asia introduced Islam to Baltistan. Among them was Mir Sayyid Ali Hamadani, who arrived via Kashmir. In Gilgit, Islam was introduced through Turkic Tarkhan rulers. During this period, local rulers such as the Maqpon dynasty of Skardu and the Rajas of Hunza played significant roles. The Maqpons, under Ali Sher Khan Anchan, unified Gilgit-Baltistan with Chitral and Ladakh. Anchan’s reign saw prosperity, cultural exchanges with the Mughal court, and the introduction of polo to the region.
Decline of Maqpon Rule
The last Maqpon Raja, Ahmed Shah, ruled Baltistan from 1811 to 1840. Following his rule, Gilgit, Chitral, and Hunza became independent of Maqpon control.
Under the Princely State of Jammu and Kashmir
Dogra and British Interventions
In November 1839, Dogra commander Zorawar Singh launched a campaign against Baltistan, capturing Skardu and its ruler, Ahmad Shah. Ahmad Shah was forced to accompany Singh on his raid into Western Tibet. A local uprising in Baltistan led by Ali Khan of Rondu and others briefly ousted the Dogras in 1841, but Dogra Commander Wasir Lakhpat later reconquered the region in 1842.
Annexation and Administration
After the Sikh defeat in the First Anglo-Sikh War, the region came under the Jammu and Kashmir princely state ruled by the Dogras. The region was perceived as ethnically distinct from Kashmir and resented Kashmiri rule. The area remained under Dogra administration, with temporary British oversight, until 1 November 1947.
Post-Independence and Pakistani Control
The First Kashmir War
Following Pakistan’s independence, Jammu and Kashmir initially stayed independent. On 22 October 1947, tribal militias backed by Pakistan entered Jammu and Kashmir. The Maharaja of Jammu and Kashmir, Hari Singh, signed the Instrument of Accession to India. In response, Pakistan’s Major William Brown led a coup in Gilgit on 1 November 1947, overthrowing the governor and establishing a provisional government. Pakistan’s political agent took over, and by mid-November, the region was under Pakistani control.
Integration into Pakistan
The provisional government in Gilgit lasted only 16 days. Pakistani control was solidified as the Gilgit Scouts, along with irregular forces, captured Skardu and advanced towards Kargil and Leh. This military action coincided with India’s complaint to the United Nations Security Council, which called for a withdrawal of forces and a plebiscite, although no withdrawal occurred.
Administrative Developments
Early Governance
Initially governed through the colonial-era Frontier Crimes Regulations, Gilgit-Baltistan lacked democratic institutions and rights. In 1970, the Gilgit Agency and Baltistan were merged into a single unit known as the Northern Areas. The region’s governance included a Northern Areas Advisory Council (NAAC), later renamed the Northern Areas Legislative Council (NALC), but legislative powers remained concentrated in the KANA Ministry.
Recent Changes and Autonomy
The 1980s saw improved connectivity with the Karakoram Highway, leading to increased educational opportunities and political awareness. In 2009, the Gilgit-Baltistan Empowerment and Self-Governance Order granted limited self-government to the region. Despite this, full political integration and representation remain ongoing issues.
Government
The current territory of Gilgit-Baltistan was established as a distinct administrative entity in 1970, originally named “Northern Areas.” This formation resulted from the integration of the former Gilgit Agency, the Baltistan District of the Ladakh Wazarat, and the hill states of Hunza and Nagar. Today, Gilgit-Baltistan comprises fourteen districts, spans approximately 73,000 square kilometers (28,000 square miles), and has a population nearing one million. It shares borders with Pakistan, China, Afghanistan, and India. In 1993, the High Court of Azad Jammu and Kashmir attempted to annex Gilgit-Baltistan, but this move was overturned by the Supreme Court of Pakistan following local protests against perceived domination by Kashmiris.
In 1974, the Pakistani government repealed the State Subject Rule in Gilgit-Baltistan, leading to demographic shifts in the region. Although administratively controlled by Pakistan since the First Kashmir War, Gilgit-Baltistan has not been formally integrated into Pakistan’s constitutional framework and does not participate in national political processes. On August 29, 2009, the Pakistani cabinet enacted the Gilgit-Baltistan Empowerment and Self-Governance Order 2009, signed by then-President Asif Ali Zardari. This order granted self-rule to the residents of Gilgit-Baltistan, creating an elected Gilgit-Baltistan Legislative Assembly and a Gilgit-Baltistan Council. Consequently, Gilgit-Baltistan acquired a de facto provincial status without official constitutional recognition. The Pakistani government has traditionally resisted integrating Gilgit-Baltistan to avoid complicating its stance on the Kashmir dispute as per UN resolutions. However, following Imran Khan’s announcement of potential provisional provincial status, there is political agreement on pursuing a constitutional amendment to recognize Gilgit-Baltistan as a province. Some Kashmiri nationalist groups seek an independent state encompassing the region as it was in 1947, while India views Gilgit-Baltistan as an integral part of the former princely state of Jammu and Kashmir.
Administrative Divisions
Gilgit-Baltistan is divided into three administrative divisions: Baltistan, Diamer, and Gilgit. Each division is further segmented into fourteen districts, with the main administrative centers located in Gilgit and Skardu.
- Baltistan Division:
- Ghanche District: 4,052 km², capital Khaplu, population 108,000
- Shigar District: 8,500 km², capital Shigar
- Kharmang District: 5,500 km², capital Kharmang
- Skardu District: 8,700 km², capital Skardu, population 305,000
- Roundu District: Capital Dambudas
- Gilgit Division:
- Gilgit District: 14,672 km², capital Gilgit, population 222,000
- Ghizer District: 9,635 km², capital Gahkuch, population 190,000
- Hunza District: 7,900 km², capital Aliabad, population 70,000 (2015)
- Nagar District: 5,000 km², capital Nagar, population 51,387 (1998)
- Gupis–Yasin District: Capital Phander
- Diamer Division:
- Diamer District: 10,936 km², capital Chilas, population 214,000
- Astore District: 5,092 km², capital Eidghah, population 114,000
- Darel District: Capital Darel
- Tangir District: Capital Tangir
The combined population of Skardu, Shigar, Kharmang, and Roundu districts was estimated to be around 1.8 million in 2015. The population growth rate between 1998 and 2011 was approximately 63.1%, equating to an annual increase of about 4.85%.
Security
Security in Gilgit-Baltistan is maintained by several agencies, including the Gilgit-Baltistan Police, the Gilgit-Baltistan Scouts (a paramilitary force), and the Northern Light Infantry (part of the Pakistani Army). The Gilgit-Baltistan Police (GBP) handles law enforcement duties, focusing on crime prevention, maintaining public order, and upholding the Constitution of Pakistan.
Geography and Climate of Gilgit-Baltistan
Geography
Gilgit-Baltistan shares its borders with several regions: to the west, it is adjacent to Pakistan’s Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province; to the north, it meets a small portion of Afghanistan’s Wakhan Corridor; to the northeast, it borders China’s Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region; to the southeast, it is close to the Indian-administered Jammu and Kashmir; and to the south, it borders the Pakistani-administered Azad Jammu and Kashmir.
This region is renowned for its mountainous terrain, housing all five of Pakistan’s peaks over 8,000 meters and more than fifty peaks exceeding 7,000 meters. Key mountains include K2 (Mount Godwin-Austen) and Nanga Parbat, the latter of which is considered one of the most challenging climbs in the world. Gilgit and Skardu serve as the primary bases for expeditions to these towering peaks.
Gilgit-Baltistan features several of the world’s longest glaciers outside the polar regions, including the Biafo Glacier, the Baltoro Glacier, and the Batura Glacier. The region is also known for its high-altitude lakes, such as:
- Sheosar Lake in the Deosai Plains
- Naltar Lakes in Naltar Valley
- Satpara Lake in Skardu
- Katzura Lake in Skardu
- Zharba Lake in Shigar
- Phoroq Lake in Skardu
- Kharfak Lake in Gangche
- Byarsa Lake in Gultari
- Borith Lake in Gojal, upper Hunza
- Rama Lake near Astore
- Rush Lake near Nagar
- Kromber Lake in Kromber Pass
- Barodaroksh Lake in Bar Valley
- Ghorashi Lake in Ghandus Valley
The Deosai Plains, situated above the tree line, represent the world’s second-highest plateau at 4,115 meters (13,501 feet), following Tibet. This plateau lies east of Astore, south of Skardu, and west of Ladakh. Declared a national park in 1993, the Deosai Plains span nearly 5,000 square kilometers (1,900 square miles) and are snow-covered for over half of the year, isolating the area from Astore and Baltistan during the winter months. The village of Deosai is linked to Ladakh’s Kargil district through an all-weather road.
Rock Art and Petroglyphs
Gilgit-Baltistan hosts more than 50,000 pieces of rock art and inscriptions, primarily located along the Karakoram Highway, especially between Hunza and Shatial. These carvings, created by ancient invaders, traders, pilgrims, and locals, date back to between 5000 and 1000 BCE. They feature single animals, triangular human figures, and hunting scenes with exaggerated animal sizes. The engravings were made using stone tools and are covered with a patina that confirms their age. Ethnologist Karl Jettmar has chronicled these discoveries in his works, including Rock Carvings and Inscriptions in the Northern Areas of Pakistan and Between Gandhara and the Silk Roads — Rock Carvings Along the Karakoram Highway. However, the construction of the Basha-Diamir dam and expansion of the Karakoram Highway threaten to inundate or destroy many of these ancient sites.
Climate
The climate of Gilgit-Baltistan varies significantly across regions due to its diverse topography. The eastern areas experience the moist climate of the western Himalayas, while the Karakoram and Hindu Kush regions have much drier conditions. Towns like Gilgit and Chilas can be very hot during summer days but experience cold nights. In contrast, valleys such as Astore, Khaplu, Yasin, Hunza, and Nagar remain chilly even in the summer months.
Climate Change Effects
Gilgit-Baltistan has been impacted by climate change, resulting in increased precipitation and more frequent flooding. On August 26, 2022, severe flooding struck several villages in the Ghizer district and Hunza, leading to the displacement of many residents.
Economy and Resources
Economic Overview
The economy of Gilgit-Baltistan is largely based on traditional trade routes, notably the historic Silk Road. The region has benefited from modern trade practices through collaboration with Xinjiang, China, and the establishment of local trade institutions such as the chamber of commerce and the Sust dry port in Gojal Hunza. Agriculture and tourism also play significant roles in the economy. Key agricultural products include wheat, corn (maize), barley, and fruits. The tourism sector, primarily focused on trekking and mountaineering, is a growing contributor to the region’s economy.
As of August 2021, Gilgit-Baltistan’s nominal Gross State Product (GSP) was $2.5 billion, with a GSP per capita of $1,748. The GSP at Purchasing Power Parity (PPP) was $10 billion, and the GSP (PPP) per capita was $6,028.
Development Projects
In early September 2009, Pakistan and China signed an agreement for a significant energy project in Gilgit-Baltistan. This project includes the construction of a 7,000-megawatt dam at Bunji in the Astore District. The China-Pakistan Economic Corridor (CPEC) aims to connect Xinjiang with Pakistan’s hinterland through Gilgit-Baltistan, with hopes that local residents will benefit from these development projects.
Mountaineering
Gilgit-Baltistan is renowned for its mountaineering opportunities, boasting over 20 peaks exceeding 6,100 meters (20,000 feet), including K2, the second-highest mountain in the world. Other notable peaks include:
- K2 (28,250 ft) – First ascent on July 31, 1954
- Nanga Parbat (26,660 ft) – First ascent on July 3, 1953
- Gasherbrum I (26,360 ft) – First ascent on July 7, 1956
- Broad Peak (26,550 ft) – First ascent on June 9, 1957
- Muztagh Tower (23,800 ft) – First ascent on August 6, 1956
- Gasherbrum II (26,120 ft) – First ascent on July 4, 1958
- Hidden Peak (26,470 ft) – First ascent on July 4, 1957
- Khunyang Chhish (25,761 ft) – First ascent on July 4, 1971
- Masherbrum (25,659 ft) – First ascent on August 4, 1960
- Saltoro Kangri (25,400 ft) – First ascent on June 4, 1962
- Chogolisa (25,148 ft) – First ascent on August 4, 1963
Basic Facilities
Gilgit has historically lacked a gas pipeline infrastructure. The region relies on gas cylinders imported from other provinces. However, the introduction of the LPG (Liquefied Petroleum Gas) Air Mix Plant project by Sui Northern Gas Pipelines Limited in 2020 aims to address this issue. This project is expected to reduce deforestation by providing a more sustainable energy source for heating and lighting. The first head office of the project has been established in Gilgit City.
Tourism
Gilgit-Baltistan is a premier tourist destination in Pakistan, renowned for its stunning landscapes, which include some of the highest peaks in the world, such as K2, the second highest peak globally. The region features a diverse range of natural attractions, including mountains, lakes, glaciers, and valleys. Visitors flock to Gilgit-Baltistan not only for its breathtaking scenery but also for its cultural landmarks, historical sites, and vibrant local culture.
Notable tourist destinations in Gilgit-Baltistan include K2 Basecamp, the Deosai National Park, Naltar, Fairy Meadows, Bagrot Valley, and Hushe Valley. The Cold Desert in Skardu, recognized as the world’s highest desert, and Sheosar Lake in the western part of Deosai National Park are among the region’s distinctive attractions.
Transport
Karakoram Highway (KKH)
The Karakoram Highway (KKH) is the primary artery connecting Gilgit-Baltistan to the rest of Pakistan and beyond. Completed in 1978 with the assistance of the Chinese government, the KKH is an engineering marvel that traverses the rugged terrain of the Karakoram Range. It links Islamabad with the major towns of Gilgit and Skardu, the region’s main hubs for tourism and mountaineering. Despite its importance, the highway is prone to landslides and harsh weather conditions, making travel challenging, especially during winter months.
Cross-Border Bus Service
In an effort to enhance connectivity between Pakistan and China, a cross-border bus service was initiated in 2006 between Gilgit and Kashgar, China. This service, which operates several times a week, provides an overland route for trade and travel between the two countries. The Karakoram Highway is also being widened and improved to better accommodate this service, which is vital for the economic integration of the region with China.
Air Travel
Given the mountainous terrain of Gilgit-Baltistan, air travel is a crucial mode of transport for both residents and tourists. Pakistan International Airlines (PIA) operates flights between Islamabad and the airports in Gilgit and Skardu. These flights offer some of the most scenic views in the world, passing over peaks like Nanga Parbat. The introduction of the ATR 42–500 aircraft has improved the reliability of these flights, though they remain subject to weather conditions, which can lead to frequent cancellations or delays, especially in winter.
Proposed Railway
To further improve connectivity, a railway line known as the Khunjerab Railway has been proposed. This ambitious project aims to link Pakistan with China via Gilgit-Baltistan, following a route parallel to the Karakoram Highway. The railway would provide a more reliable and faster means of transport through the region, enhancing trade and tourism. However, the project is still in the planning stages, and its completion is contingent on overcoming significant engineering and financial challenges.
Demographics of Gilgit-Baltistan
Population
As of the 2017 census, the population of Gilgit-Baltistan stands at 1,492,924. This marks an increase from the estimated population of 1.249 million in 2013 and 873,000 in 1998. Approximately 14% of the population resides in urban areas, with the region having the highest fertility rate in Pakistan at 4.7 children per woman. The region is home to a diverse mix of linguistic, ethnic, and religious groups, reflecting its isolated valleys and rugged terrain. Ethnic groups in the area include Shins, Yashkuns, Kashmiris, Kashgaris, Pamiris, Pathans, and Kohistanis. The literacy rate in Gilgit-Baltistan is around 72%, indicating significant progress in education.
Languages
Gilgit-Baltistan is a linguistically rich region with multiple languages spoken across its valleys. Urdu serves as the lingua franca for interethnic communication and is the national and official language. English is co-official and widely used in education, while Arabic is primarily used for religious purposes. The region’s primary languages include:
- Shina: A Dardic language spoken by the majority in several tehsils.
- Balti: A Tibetan language spoken predominantly in Skardu and surrounding tehsils.
- Burushaski: A language isolate with significant Urdu influence, spoken mainly in the Hunza and Nagar valleys.
- Khowar: Another Dardic language spoken in specific tehsils, with some overlap with Shina-speaking areas.
- Wakhi: An Eastern Iranian/Pamiri language spoken mainly in the Gojal Tehsil of Hunza.
Other languages such as Pashto, Kashmiri, Domaaki, and Gojri are also spoken by smaller populations within the region.
Religion
Gilgit-Baltistan is unique in Pakistan for its religious diversity, with the entire population being Muslim but divided into various sects. The region is predominantly Shia Muslim, with Shias making up approximately 39.85% of the population. Sunnis account for 30.05%, Ismailis 24%, and Noorbakhshis 6.1%. The sectarian composition varies by district, with Shias being the majority in Skardu, Sunnis in Diamir and Astore, Noorbakhshis in Ghanche, and Ismailis in Ghizar. The districts of Gilgit, Hunza, and Nagar feature a mix of these sects. Historically, the Shia and Ismaili communities constituted about 85% of the population in 1948. However, there have been efforts, particularly under General Zia ul-Haq, to alter this demographic balance by encouraging Sunni migration into the region.
Culture
Architecture
The architecture of Gilgit-Baltistan reflects a strong influence from Tibetan styles, as evident in iconic structures such as Baltit Fort in Hunza, Khaplu Palace, and the Chaqchan Mosque in Khaplu. These buildings showcase the region’s unique architectural heritage, characterized by intricate woodwork, stone masonry, and traditional designs that have withstood the test of time. The blend of Tibetan and local architectural practices highlights the historical interactions and cultural exchanges that have shaped the region.
Traditional Music and Dance
Gilgit-Baltistan is rich in traditional music and dance, integral to its cultural identity. Traditional music often accompanies the region’s dances, which include the Old Man Dance, where participants don traditional attire, the Cowboy Dance (Payaloo), characterized by long leather shoes and sticks, and the Sword Dance, performed by pairs wielding swords and shields. These dances are a testament to the region’s vibrant cultural expressions, often performed during festivals and special occasions, bringing communities together in celebration.
Cuisine
The local cuisine of Gilgit-Baltistan is diverse, with unique dishes that reflect the region’s cultural and geographical diversity. A popular dish is Chapchor, widely made in the Nagar and Hunza valleys. The cuisine of the region often features ingredients that are locally sourced, with recipes passed down through generations, offering a taste of the area’s rich culinary heritage.
Festivals
Cultural festivals are an essential part of life in Gilgit-Baltistan, serving as opportunities for the community to come together and celebrate their heritage. Major cultural events include the Shandoor Polo Festival, Babusar Polo Festival, and Jashn-e-Baharan or the Harvest Time Festival (Navroz). These festivals feature traditional music, dance, sports, and other cultural activities, providing a vibrant showcase of the region’s customs and traditions.
Sports
Polo
Polo is the most popular sport in Gilgit-Baltistan, with the region boasting numerous polo grounds across its valleys. The Shandur Polo Festival, held annually, is a major event where teams from Gilgit and Chitral compete. Polo in this region is often referred to as the “game of kings,” and it is played with a passion that draws both locals and tourists. Some local historians suggest that polo originated in this region, with stories like the Epic of King Gesar from Baltistan depicting the early forms of the game. The word “polo” itself is believed to have Balti origins, derived from a word meaning “ball.”
Other Sports
In addition to polo, other popular sports in the region include football, cricket, and volleyball, the latter of which is particularly popular during the winter months. The region’s unique geography also makes it ideal for climbing and trekking, which are gaining popularity. Gilgit-Baltistan has produced notable mountaineers, such as Samina Baig from Hunza, the first Pakistani woman to climb Mount Everest and the youngest Muslim woman to do so, and Hassan Sadpara from Skardu, who has climbed six of the world’s eight-thousanders, including Everest and K2. These achievements highlight the region’s growing reputation as a hub for adventure sports and mountaineering.